"I am most impressed by the quality of the materials and the proper fit of the logs made the assembly problem-free. I have my own slice of Vermont — in Connecticut!"

Gordon Spink



Glossary of Terms

Though some words and phrases may be specific to the log home business, we want to bring you into the log homeowner fold. Learn our language so that you can make the best decisions when you’re building your log home.

Click on a word or phrase below to learn more about it.

Air Dried Logs

Logs are milled into "cants" or square stock and dried slowly and naturally outdoors to an optimum moisture content of 20% or less for Northeastern Log Homes. Depending on the time of year, this can take three to six months. Only after the logs have reached this moisture content do we mill the logs for a home package.

Butt and Pass Corner

Instead of the square log ends butting against the face of each other, the "butt and pass" corner allows the logs to alternately extend past one another. Each log fits together in a tongue-and-groove fashion, sealed with a foam pad and caulking.

Kiln Dried Logs

Logs are milled into "cants" or square stock, moved to a closed building and dried in a heat controlled environment. It takes from three to six weeks to dry logs in a kiln. Log walls will typically have more chinks or cracks as a result of this type of drying process as the moisture is being forced from the wood.

Log Profile

To give our customers even more choice in the look and feel of their log homes, we offer several log profiles. You choose the size, shape and style of the logs that will meet your personal tastes.

Moisture Content

This is a measurement of the amount of moisture in a log. As a log dries it will lose moisture, causing the log to shrink. At Northeastern, we air dry our logs to a moisture content of 20% or less prior to milling the logs into our log profile.


Shorthand for Percolation Test. Before you buy your lot or start building on land you already own, a licensed surveyor will dig several post-size holes, pour water into them and make sure they drain or percolate fast enough to meet requirements for a dry foundation and trouble-free sanitary system.


Indicates your building permit. Once your engineered home plans are in hand and you know exactly where your house is going to be built on the site, you or your general contractor will take them to the municipal building department for review and building permits. The building inspector will review the plans to make sure they meet local zoning and engineering standards for snow loads and the like. From time-to-time, the inspector may visit the site to make sure all the plumbing, wiring, heating and construction are done safely.


Short for prequalify for financing. This is a commitment from your mortgage company or bank for a permanent mortgage and construction loan. This is based on income and asset information you provide in confidence. It lets you know how much you can comfortably budget for your home and what your monthly payments will be. Doing this at the very outset enables you to focus your attention on house plans within your price range.


There are two traditional ways to support the roof of a house. One is with rafters, which are sturdy boards 16" on center, from the wall to the highest part of the roof or "ridge pole" The other is with Purlins that run the long way. Purlins are chunkier, further apart, usually remain exposed and greatly enhance the beauty and character of your log home.

Click "DOWNLOAD PDF" for the material package price on any of the models in the Premier, Traditional or Camp and Cabin series.  Please of course feel free to contact us by clicking here, or calling us directly at 800-624-2797!